An expression of strong femininity, of controlled and confident sensuality, but also, for brands, of a certain mastery , leather is the cornerstone of several collections this winter season. This is the case at Acne Studios, which sculpts it on women’s torsos, as well as at Khaite, which drapes it, and at Hermès, which studs it and transforms it into the armor of female riders , whether on horseback or motorcycle. Leather becomes almost a fabric like any other , adorning trousers, coats, dresses, and jackets with the same intensity. A second skin of the highest order.
The trompe-l’œil trend: when illusion has style
Forget “good” manners. From Milan to Paris, a new way of wearing clothes has emerged. At Fendi, sweaters aren’t quite pulled on; at Victoria Beckham and Balenciaga, jackets drape over the body without letting it get inside; at Marie Adam-Leenardt, skirts go over the head. Designers are having fun challenging the commonly accepted position or function of clothing . An invitation to rethink how we put together outfits, unless it’s just a flashy, runway-style effect.
Faux fur is all the rage: the star coat of the winter collections
Fleece is golden. Fluffy, hairy, and furry pieces have become ubiquitous: the website that catalogs Tagwalk shows lists over 600 examples for the Fall/Winter 2024-2025 season. And since each artistic director does as they please with their hair, the trend has seen an infinite number of interpretations . The realistic faux furs of Miu Miu and Simone Rocha stand in contrast to the kitschy versions of Rabanne and Balenciaga. Textures are also expressed in spectacular marabou feathers, as seen at Erdem and Germanier, or, in a more minimalist version, as featherless wigs, as seen at the Hermès and Courrèges presentations. Finally, the immense knit coats of the fervent environmentalist Stella McCartney and those in merino wool by Alaïa complete the offering. So there’s no reason to be in a bad mood.
The red trend continues, from bags to coats, dresses and skirts.
There was Gucci’s “ancora” red last spring/summer, and now there’s red again. Few brands have decided to forgo this incandescent shade in their winter color palettes. While it made a subtle appearance at the Jean Paul Gaultier show by Simone Rocha for couture, and was immediately adopted by the street style of Copenhagen Fashion Week , it has definitively established itself. Sportmax, Ferragamo, Jil Sander, Isabel Marant… everyone is showcasing their own head-to-toe red look.
Chic and precious trends, in a childlike style
No one could escape the wave of satin pink that swept across social media in recent months. Bows, lace, ruffles, and veils have established the repertoire of the coquettish , romantic, and undeniably kitsch figure in fashion trends. This message has been received on the runways, where some designers are seizing upon these utterly girly details to create outfits that work beyond the digital realm. This is the case with Prada, but also with smaller labels like Simone Rocha, whose delicate touch is already well established, or the emerging Roisin Pierce. Beware the explosion of sweetness.
The trend for transparency: the secret weapon of femme fatales.
No one expected it anymore, but here it is again. Sheer clothing, a tool for reclaiming one’s body as an object (for example: of desire), has been adorned with demands in recent years. It notably allowed Rihanna’s pregnant belly and Florence Pugh’s breasts to find their place on the red carpet. That was in 2022. Two years later, the catwalks are still playing this game of revealing and unveiling with female anatomy. But some are, like Vanessa Friedman of the New York Times , who didn’t hold back her frustration following the Saint Laurent show. Whatever the famous journalist thinks, sheer fabric hasn’t had its last word: it’s even reinventing itself, with bohemian accents at Chloé by Chemena Kamali or a more masculine feel at Coperni or Helmut Lang.
The color trend: which colors are winning?
The explosion of color that followed the end of the pandemic in 2020 seems a distant memory. Quiet luxury , which celebrates discretion, harmony, and beige, hasn’t entirely silenced contrasting color palettes, as evidenced by the resurgence of vibrant red. Somewhere between these two extremes, a new approach emerged in the fall of 2024: color, yes, but organic color . At Ferragamo, Saint Laurent, Gucci, and Chloé, hues raced towards the realm of nature: fir green , earthy tones, pink, plum… A whole spectrum of shades that can be worn in monochromatic outfits but also blend beautifully with other colors or pastels, from dawn till dusk.
The trend for rounded shoulders, or a gentle winter
Perhaps tired of having to adorn women with exuberant volumes to assert their presence, designers have redefined shoulders with more subtlety this season. This idea is also conveyed by the character of Bella Baxter, adorned with grandiose sleeves and portrayed by Emma Stone in the film Poor Creatures . Shoulders soften and curve at Louis Vuitton, Fendi, and Jill Sander, establishing the idea of the poise of rounded sleeves and the nobility of a silhouette with flowing lines. After seasons of worshipping structured blazers, they have the merit of preventing us from going in circles.
